Walking the Ghats.

Walking the Ghats:

It has always been a dream to visit a sky island and climb all the way to the top of the Ghats to look down and marvel at the sheer beauty of such an untouched pristine eco-system. I have had multiple opportunities to observe birds at lower altitudes in the Ghats at multiple locations among which Ooty, Mudumalai, and Agumbe were my most memorable experiences.
But all of these sites were to the north of the Shencottah Gap. The second largest geographical barrier in the Western Ghats eco-system.  Recent research by a team of scientists has shown that such deep and wide valleys can cause nested phylogeographic variations in bird populations. Which, simply put  is the effect of such large geographical gaps serving as barriers for dispersal of populations leading to populations on either side evolving into a separate species over time. 

The Shola forests gradually make way for Montane grasslands at altitudes of 1100mtrs.  It is this fragmentation of habitats across the peaks and on the hills themselves that causes populations to be isolated from others.

I had never observed birds across a gap, so when the opportunity presented itself I hurriedly packed my bags, picked up my gear and set off by train to my destination- Tirunelvelli. Making my way up the mountain terrain, I noticed that while the birds looked similar to their relatives on the other side, their song pattern was different when compared to the ones I had previously heard. Research has shown that birdsong is genetically determined and variations in the song do exist across populations that have been isolated and exist completely independent of each other. Most seasoned birdwatchers will not be able to tell the difference between some of these birds if both specimens are placed together. However, molecular evidence provides strong proof for the existence of genetic variations amongst populations sampled from both sides of the Ghats.


A yellow browed bulbul whose song differed markedly from its relative to the north of the Shencottah Gap.

When I had my first sighting of the birds that were restricted to the south of the Shencottah gap, I found that I was unfamiliar calls. But the birds making them were all too familiar. It is mind boggling to see how the existence of these gaps can influence speciation in such a massive manner. Once you make your way to the top of the peak, only then will you understand the scale at which these gaps may influence dispersals and distributions. At that moment, you are suddenly reminded of the great scientist, Charles Darwin aboard the H.M.S Beagle and you start to wonder if there are really multiple species hiding in plain sight, and you’ve just brushed them off because they didn’t look all too different to you.

It may be hard to understand the scale of isolation being spoken about here, but if you stood on one of the larger peaks to the south of the Shencottah, you wouldn’t be able to find another mountain peak for the next 40kms. Which mind you, is a very long distance for specialist birds to fly across. The main constraint being that these birds require specific microclimates and microhabitats to survive without the existence of which, dispersal is impossible for these feathered beauties.


Even among the mountain peaks of the same range, the gap is quite noticeable.

These are two neighboring peaks and while the bird populations on both sides was to a great deal similar, there was not much variation between them. But imagine this on a larger scale.
As part of my Masters thesis I will be studying populations at multiple locations and mapping the exact location of endemics In the Western Ghats. Only time can tell what surprises these hills hold. 

A Russel's Kukri from the Hills of the Western Ghats


A Nyctibatrachus (Night Frog) photographed in a waterfall from the hills.


A Malabar Torrent Dart Damselfly from a freshwater stream in the Ghats


A Kalakad Dancing frog- Another Endemic of the Western Ghats.


A typical stream in the hills

With such a diverse landscape holding hundreds of enigmatic creatures, this habitat is filled with surprises. The Bio-diversity of this region is evident in the bird population that calls these hills home. Some of these birds are found nowhere else in the Sub-continent, let alone in the world.

I will be leaving in November to the Ghats for 3 months to map and document the endemic birds of the Ghats. More surprises then.

Watch this video to get a glimpse of "The jewel of South India".